The Bahamian chain of islands, cays, and reefs stretches from Grand Bahama Island, 121km (75 miles) almost due east of Palm Beach, Florida, to Great Inagua, the southernmost island, which lies about 97km (60 miles) northeast of Cuba and fewer than 161km (100 miles) north of Haiti.

For 70 years and more, before and after the year 1700, for example, Nassau was infested with pirates, including the infamous Blackbeard, Henry Morgan and the bloodthirsty Anne Bonny. They chose a short life but a merry one, plundering ships until they were either hanged or run off by Woodes Rogers, the first Royal Governor, who arrived here in 1718.

At an earlier time the gentle, doomed Lucayans lived peacefully in these islands. These are the natives who welcomed Christopher Columbus to the New World in 1492, having beaten him to the discovery by about 5,000 years. The great navigator wrote in his journal that the Lucayans were tall, good looking, neither black nor white and that they "go quite naked, as their mother bore them." The Lucayans were related to the Arawaks, the same natives found today in Guyana and Venezuela. It's believed they traveled here in hollowed log canoes, probably to escape the cannibalistic Caribs.

Little is known for sure about the Lucayans because they were quickly exterminated after the Spanish conquistadores arrived, leaving only traces. Their language, however, yielded several words that survive in English: "cay," "guava," "canoe," "hurricane," "hammock" and "iguana," as well as the word and use of "tobacco."

The Commonwealth of The Bahamas came into being in 1973 after centuries of colonial rule. After Great Britain granted The Bahamas internal self-rule in 1964, the fledgling nation adopted its own constitution but chose not to sever its ties with its motherland. It has remained in the Commonwealth, with the British monarch as its head of state. In the British tradition, The Bahamas has a two-house Parliament, a ministerial cabinet headed by a prime minister, and an independent judiciary. The queen appoints a Bahamian-general to represent the Crown.

The Bahamas (that's with a capital "T") is one of the most geographically complicated nations of the Atlantic. A coral-based archipelago, it is composed of more than 700 islands, 2,000 cays (pronounced "keys," from the Spanish word for small islands), and hundreds of rocky outcroppings that have damaged the hulls of countless ships since colonial days.

Nassau really is the true "The Bahamas". You'd think a city so close to the U.S. mainland would have been long since overpowered by American culture. Yet, except for some fast-food chain outlets, American pop music, and Hollywood films, Nassau retains a surprising amount of its traditionally British feel.

After a long slumber, the government and many concerned citizens of The Bahamas have awakened to eco-tourism. More than any government in the Caribbean, except perhaps Bonaire, this nation is trying to protect its natural heritage. If nothing else, its residents realize doing this will be good for tourism, because many visitors come to The Bahamas precisely for a close encounter with nature.

Government, private companies, and environmental groups have drawn up a national framework of priorities to protect the islands. One of their first goals was to save the nearly extinct West Indian flamingo. Today, nearly 80,000 flamingos inhabit the Island of Great Inagua. Equally important programs aim to prevent the extinction of the green turtle, the white-crowned pigeon, the Bahamian parrot, and the New Providence iguana.

The immortal Don Quixote says "'Tis good to live and learn," and if you believe that, Nassau and Paradise Island are good places to live and learn a little bit about a lot of things: how to play baccarat, for example, and how to tell a Bahama woodstar from a Cuban grassquit.

Transform your Bahamian vacation into a learning experience. You can learn to play tennis, golf, gamble, snorkel, dive, identify tropical fish, sail a catamaran, windsurf, paddle a kayak, ride a horse, appreciate Bahamian art, make a yellow bird cocktail and recognize a great deal on a fancy watch when you see one. You won't have difficulty with the last item, incidentally. You'll quickly learn that luxury watches and jewelery are big bargains in The Bahamas.

Everyone has at least thought about birdwatching, or birding as serious participants put it. If you've never actually tried it (and even if you have), The Bahamas, with more than 300 species, is a wonderful place to learn about the avifauna.

There are several good birding locations, including the duck pond on Paradise Island's Lakeview Dr, "Go Slow Bend" on West Bay St for shorebirds and The Retreat, home of the Bahamas National Trust (BNT), on Village Rd. (You can easily locate these places on Bahamas Trailblazer Maps, available free all over town). During the winter there are always winged visitors at The Retreat: American redstarts, black-throated blue warblers, ovenbirds, and rose-breasted grosbeaks, among many others.

A surreal world of wonder lurks under the ocean's surface no matter where you are, but in The Bahamas that world includes some spectacular sights that you won't find in most other places. While the warmth and clarity of these waters are well known, what is truly notable is the volume and variety of life harboured in its depths. Schools of brightly coloured tropical fish stream past. Gaily striped sergeant majors, blue-green parrotfish and triggerfish, silvery-red grunts and vivid blue tangs create a memorable scene above the reefs.

New Providence Island (Nassau/Cable Beach) New Providence isn't the largest of the Bahamian Islands, but it's the historic heart of the nation, with a strong maritime tradition and the largest population in the country. Home to about 125,000 residents, it offers groves of pines and casuarinas; sandy, flat soil; the closest thing in The Bahamas to urban sprawl; and superb anchorages sheltered from rough seas by the presence of nearby Paradise Island. New Providence has the country's busiest airport and is dotted with hundreds of villas owned by foreign investors. Its two major resort areas are Cable Beach and Nassau.

The resort area of Cable Beach is a glittering beachfront strip of hotels, restaurants, and casinos; only Paradise Island has been more developed. Its center is the Marriott Resort & Crystal Palace Casino. Often, deciding between Cable Beach and Paradise Island isn't so much a choice of which island you prefer as a choice of which hotel you prefer. But it's easy to sample both, since it takes only about 30 minutes to drive between the two.

Nassau, the Bahamian capital, isn't on a great stretch of shoreline and doesn't have as many first-rate hotels as either Paradise Island or Cable Beach -- with the exception of the Bahama Hilton, which has a small private beach. The main advantages of Nassau are colonial charm and price. Its hotels may not be ideally located, but they are relatively inexpensive; some offer very low prices even during the winter high season. You can base yourself here and commute easily to the beaches at Paradise Island or Cable Beach. Some travelers even prefer Nassau because it's the seat of Bahamian culture and history -- not to mention the shopping Mecca of The Bahamas.

Paradise Island

If high-rise hotels and glittering casinos are what you want, along with some of the best beaches in The Bahamas, there is no better choice than Paradise Island, directly off the coast of Nassau. It has the best food, the best entertainment, terrific beaches, casinos, and the best hotels. Its major drawbacks are that it's expensive and often overcrowded. Boasting a colorful history, yet a host of unremarkable architecture, Paradise Island remains perhaps the most intensely marketed piece of real estate in the world. The sands and shoals of the elongated and narrow island protect the wharves and piers of Nassau, which rise across a narrow channel only 180m (600 ft.) away.

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Old Fort Beach (Nassau): With pristine white sands and turquoise water, this is the least developed major beach on New Providence Island, near the relatively unpopulated western tip of The Bahamas's most crowded island. Many of its biggest fans are homeowners from nearby Lyford Cay, whose homes are among the most expensive in The Bahamas. The beach is least crowded on weekdays, and windiest throughout the winter. There's great water-skiing in summer, when waters are the calmest.

Cable Beach (Nassau): The glittering shoreline of Cable Beach has easy access to shops, casinos, restaurants, watersports, and bars. It's a sandy 6.5km- (4-mile-) long strip, with a great array of facilities and activities.

Cabbage Beach (Paradise Island): Think Vegas in the tropics. It seems as if most of the sunbathers dozing on the sands here are recovering from the previous evening's partying, and it's likely to be crowded near the megahotels, but you can find a bit more solitude on the beach's isolated northwestern extension (Paradise Beach) -- which is accessible only by boat or on foot. Lined with palms, sea grapes, and casuarinas, the sands are broad and stretch for at least 3km (2 miles).

Many ships have sunk near Nassau in the past 300 years, and all the dive outfitters here know the most scenic wreck sites. Other attractions are underwater gardens of elkhorn coral and dozens of reefs brimming with underwater life. The most spectacular dive site is the Shark Wall, 16km (10 miles) off the southwest coast of New Providence; it's blessed with incredible, colorful sea life and the healthiest coral offshore. You'll even get to swim with sharks (not as bait, of course).

With miles and miles of white sandy beaches and azure seas, it's easy to spend your time sunbathing and relaxing. But if tanning is not your idea of a sport there's lots to keep you busy here: from diving, snorkelling, fishing and windsurfing to rugby, tennis, golf and horseback riding. Whatever your sport, you'll find a way to enjoy it.
 

Ardastra Gardens, Zoo & Conservation Centre
Chippingham, West Bay St, one mile west of downtown

Stroll around Ardastra Gardens, Zoo & Conservation Centre's 51/2 acres of beautiful tropical gardens and watch world-famous marching flamingos perform with military precision at 10:30am, 2:10pm and 4:10pm daily. There are also iguanas, snakes, monkeys, birds, including the rare Bahama parrot, and even a Vietnamese potbellied pig. Open daily 9am-5pm. Last admission 4:30pm. Adults, $12; children 4-12, $6; under 4, free. http://www.ardastra.com

Balcony House
Market St off Bay St
(242) 302-2621

Balcony House is an 18th-century architectural gem, fully restored as a museum. It is the oldest wooden residential structure in Nassau. Open Mon-Wed and Fri 10am-4:30pm. Thurs and Sat 10am-1pm. Admission by donation (subject to change).

Horseback Riding
Carl Harbour
(242) 362-1820

Virtually the only place on New Providence Island (Nassau) that offers horseback riding is Happy Trails Stables which features both morning and afternoon trail rides and requires a reservation. These tours include transportation to and from your hotel. The trail rides are guided through the woods and along the beach.

Blue Lagoon Island
Paradise Island
(242) 363-3333

Discover your perfect day only a 20-minute ferryboat ride away. Escape to Blue Lagoon Island and enjoy the white sandy beaches and clear waters that make The Bahamas legendary. This private island getaway offers magnificent vistas, inviting hammocks, unlimited water sports, casual dining, beach bars, live entertainment, gift shops, nature walks, reggae dance classes, marshmallow golf, beach bowling and more - something for everyone.

Botanical Gardens
Chippingham, off West Bay St
(242) 323-5975

Wander through 18 acres of tropical flora at the Botanical Gardens, home to more than 600 species. Open Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat-Sun and holidays 9am-4pm. Adults, $1; children 5-12, 50 cents.

Changing of the Guard
Blue Hill Rd, Government House grounds
(242) 322-3622

Patterned after the world-famous ceremony outside Buckingham Palace in London, England, this tradition of pomp and pageantry takes place every two weeks to mark the changing of the guard at Government House (see Government House). The Royal Bahamas Police Force Band performs at 10am. Call for dates

Discover Atlantis
Paradise Island
(242) 363-3000 ext 63201

Paradise Island visitors who are not staying at Atlantis may tour the spectacular ruins of the lost continent in the Discover Atlantis programme. Explore The Dig, an archaeological interpretation of how Atlantean culture might have flourished more than 11,000 years ago. Come face-to-face with some of the fiercest aquatic creatures, including sharks, piranhas and moray eels, in the world's largest man-made marine habitat. Visitors may buy tour passes at the Temple of the Moon in the Atlantis Casino.

Dolphin Encounters
Paradise Island Ferry Terminal, One Marina Drive
(242) 363-1003

Get up close and personal with the dolphins of Blue Lagoon Island at Dolphin Encounters. Choose from two programmes, each preceded by a 15-min orientation session on these fascinating animals. During the Close Encounter, pet, feed, hug and kiss your new-found friends while standing on a special platform in waist-deep water. The Swim-with-the-Dolphins programme includes a 30-min interactive swim and the "amazing foot-push," as well as the "human hurdle," the Flipper dance and lots of time for petting and feeding. Four departures daily from the Paradise Island Ferry Terminal. Open daily 8am-5pm. Space is limited. http://www.dolphinencounters.com

Flying Cloud
Paradise Island Ferry Terminal
(242) 363-4430

Take a high-speed sail aboard the Flying Cloud, a 57-ft catamaran, for a half-day of sailing and snorkelling (gear and lessons provided). Boat departs Paradise Island Ferry Terminal at 9:30am and 2pm. Charters available. Space is limited so book early through your hotel tour desk. Children 3-11 yrs, half price. Round trip transportation to the boat included. Call for reservations at 363-4430 or book through your hotel's tour desk. http://www.bahamasnet.com/flyingcloud

Graycliff Cigar Company
West Hill St
(242) 302-9191\(242) 322-2796

Visit the Graycliff Cigar Company, the only such facility in The Bahamas, and watch as 12 cigar master rollers from Cuba practice their craft. This is the home of the legendary Graycliff cigar and the new Junkanoo cigar with specially crafted, colourful souvenir box. Open 8:30am-5pm. You can also dine at the factory's Humidor Restaurant. http://www.graycliff.com

Powerboat Adventures' Marine Safari
Located off West Bay St, one mile west of downtown
(242) 393-7116

You're in for the experience of a lifetime on an overnight camping adventure getaway with the new Powerboat Adventures' Marine Safari. Luxury air-conditioned safari tents have hot and cold showers and queen-sized beds, and guests enjoy a menu of fresh seafood. Activity lovers can swim, snorkel and explore. http://www.powerboatadventures.com

Queen's Staircase
Off Shirley St

Next to the Princess Margaret Hospital, off shirley St, was hand-hewn from solid limestone by slaves in the 18th century. The staircase, also known as "The 66 steps" (although now there are only 65), was named for Queen Victoria. Walk through a shady limestone arcade, then climb the 102-ft stairway to the top of the Water Tower.

The major change occurring in Nassau shopping is that it is going more upscale than decades past. Swanky jewelers and a burgeoning fashion scene have appeared. There are still plenty of T-shirts claiming that "It's Better in The Bahamas," but in contrast you can also find platinum watches and diamond jewelry.

The range of goods is staggering; in the midst of all the junk souvenirs, you'll find an increasing array of china, crystal, or watches from such names as Bally, Herend, Lalique, Baccarat, and Ferragamo. But can you really save money on prices stateside? The answer is "yes" on some items, "no" on others. To figure on what's a bargain and what's not, you've got to know the price of everything back in your hometown, turning yourself into a human calculator about prices -- well, almost .

There are no import duties on 11 categories of luxury goods, including china, crystal, fine linens, jewelry, leather goods, photographic equipment, watches, fragrances, and other merchandise. Antiques, of course, are exempt from import duty worldwide. But even though prices are "duty-free," you can still end up spending more on an item in The Bahamas than you would back in your hometown. It's a tricky situation.

If you're contemplating a major purchase, such as a good Swiss watch or some expensive perfume, it's best to do some research in your hometown discount outlets before making a serious purchase in The Bahamas. While the alleged 30% to 50% discount off stateside prices might apply in some cases, it's not true in most cases. Certain cameras and electronic equipment, we have discovered, are listed in The Bahamas at, say, 20% or more below the manufacturer's "suggested retail price." That sounds good, except the manufacturer's suggested price might be a lot higher than what you'd pay in your hometown. You aren't getting the discount you think you are. Some shoppers even take along department-store catalogs from the States to determine if they are indeed getting a bargain.

A lot of price-fixing seems to be going on in Nassau. For example, a bottle of Chanel is likely to sell for pretty much the same price regardless of the store.

The principal shopping areas are Bay Street and its side streets downtown, as well as the shops in the arcades of hotels. Not many street numbers are used along Bay Street; just look for store signs.

To Bargain or Not to Bargain -- Don't try to bargain with the salespeople in Nassau stores as you would do with merchants at the local market. The price asked in the shops is the price you must pay, but you won't be pressed to make a purchase. The salespeople here are courteous and helpful in most cases.

The Nassau International Bazaar consists of some 30 shops selling international goods in a new arcade. A pleasant place for browsing, the $1.8 million complex sells goods from around the globe. The bazaar runs from Bay Street down to the waterfront (near the Prince George Wharf). With cobbled alleyways and garreted storefronts, the area looks like a European village.

Prince George Plaza, Bay Street, is popular with cruise-ship passengers. Many fine shops (Gucci, for example) are found here. When you get tired of shopping, you can dine at the open-air rooftop restaurant that overlooks Bay Street.

The Straw Market seems to be on every shopper's itinerary, and hopefully the government will finish rebuilding it soon (a fall 2001 fire gutted nearly the entire original facility). It may be operating again by the time you read this, though a 2005 reopening seems more likely. Even if it's not yet up and running, you'll still find Bahamian craftspeople weaving and pleating straw hats, handbags, dolls, placemats, and other items -- including straw shopping bags to hold your purchases -- in a temporary site between the waterfront and Bay Street, just east of the British Colonial Hilton. (A warehouse sitting on the 1st dock of Prince George Wharf is being prepared as its new and enlarged home.) Part of the fun here is bargaining with merchants for the lowest price you can get. The market opens Monday through Saturday at 8am, and starts winding down by 3pm.

Goin' Local -- Coconut Gin and a Fish Fry -- Locals call the small artificial island of Arawak Cay "Fish Fry." It lies right in the heart of Nassau, across West Bay Street (from the Botanical Gardens, walk back along Chippingham Rd.). Early in the day, you'll be able to buy ultra-fresh conch; vendors will crack the mollusk before your eyes (this isn't everybody's favorite attraction). They'll give you some hot sauce and tell you to chow down. Beginning around noon, you'll find at least a half-dozen simple bars and kiosks dispensing cracked conch, fried fish, and grits garnished with either spicy corned beef or tuna salad. With it, you can sample a favorite drink of the islands, coconut milk laced with gin (an acquired taste, to say the least, but you'll feel like a real Bahamian). It's at its most crowded and popular every Sunday night, beginning around 5pm until around midnight when hundreds of Bahamians gather together next to bonfires to gossip, flirt, raise hell, and generally hang out.

Tropique International Smoke Shop

Many cigar aficionados come here to indulge their passion for Cubans, which are handpicked and imported by Bahamian merchants. The staff at this outlet trained in Havana, so they know their cigars. Remember, U.S. citizens are prohibited from bringing Cuban cigars back home because of the trade embargo. If you buy them, you are supposed to enjoy them in The Bahamas.

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Overview

Welcome to the culinary culture of The Bahamas Pray that your waist doesn't grow as broad as your dining options. The sea provides many of your choices, and offers a bounty that is uniquely Bahamian. Heading the aquatic lineup are the big three - grouper, lobster and conch. The permutations and combinations with which they can be prepared and served are truly mind-boggling, as well as mouth-watering. Landlubbers, of course, will find their share of chicken, beef, lamb, pork, pasta and vegetarian dishes from all over the world. Many restaurants offer a unique blend of Caribbean or Continental ambience, and the quality is superbe.


Chez Willie

Elegant and romantic in aura, Chez Willie is now a hot dinner reservation along Bay Street, luring visitors at night. Up to now many patrons had no real reason to visit at night. Jackets are preferred for men, and you can dine alfresco, listening to live piano music. Somehow this place recaptures some of the grandeur of Nassau in its cafe society days. In this relaxing atmosphere, you are likely to meet Willie Armstrong himself, the host. You'll recognize him by his bow tie with jeweled clip, kissing the hand of female guests. In the courtyard is a fountain and regal statuary.

The food is exquisite. Launch into your repast with the stone crab claws with a Dijon mustard sauce or perhaps a fresh Bahamian tuna and crab mousse in a light sauce. The main courses are prepared with first-rate ingredients. Much of it is familiar fare but beautifully prepared, ranging from lobster thermidor to sautéed Dover sole in a tarragon and tomato-laced sauce. We often opt for the broiled seafood platter in a sauce made with fresh herbs. The chef's special is grouper in puff pastry with crabmeat, served with a coconut cream sauce. Special dinners for two, taking an hour, feature beef Wellington, a delicate chateaubriand, or roast rack of lamb.

Graycliff

Part of the Graycliff hotel, an antiques-filled colonial mansion located opposite Government House, this restaurant is the domain of connoisseur and bon vivant Enrico Garzaroli. The chefs use local Bahamian products whenever available and turn them into an old-fashioned, heavy cuisine that still has a lot of appeal for tradition-minded visitors, many of whom return here year after year. The chefs, neither completely traditional nor regional, produce such dishes as grouper soup in puff pastry, and plump, juicy pheasant cooked with pineapples grown on Eleuthera. Lobster is another specialty, half in beurre blanc and the other sided with a sauce prepared with the head of the lobster. Other standard dishes include escargots, foie gras, and tournedos d'agneau. The pricey wine list is the finest in the country, with more than 175,000 bottles. The collection of Cuban cigars here -- almost 90 types -- is said to be the most varied in the world.

Sun And . . .

Near Fort Montagu, this place seems to have been here forever and can name-drop better than anyplace. Sun And.. . is the classic Nassau restaurant, a citadel of top-notch cuisine and service with a hearty dose of British colonial charm. To get to this hard-to-find place, you pass over a drawbridge between two pools and then enter a Spanish-style courtyard, complete with fountains. In this fine old Bahamian home, you can order drinks in the patio bar and then dine cozily inside or alfresco around the rock pool.

Start with the spicy conch chowder; there's none better in Nassau. The chef shines with ingeniously prepared dishes such as braised duckling with sweet and sour sauce. Sure, it's been done before, but it's prepared ever so well here. The grilled veal chop with portobello mushrooms is another of the more admirably executed dishes, as is the classic roast spring lamb, almost melt-in-your-mouth tender and perfectly seasoned without being overpowered with herbs and garlic. Local foodies always praise Ronny Deryckere's incomparable soufflés (even better than the Grand Marnier soufflé at Graycliff, and that's saying a lot). Our favorite is prepared with rum raisins and Black Label Bacardi. More than 100 wines complement the well-thought-out menu.

The Restaurant at Compass Point

This is one of the best restaurants on New Providence, and the only one to join the stellar ranks of Graycliff and Sun And. .. in years. It's not as formal as either of those, but instead it has a low-key, casually hip style that attracts lots of entertainment-industry types and local foodies. The dining room is indoor/outdoor, outfitted in island colors; the interior is capped with slowly spinning ceiling fans.

The cuisine is a combination of California and Caribbean, with many innovative dishes, some of which even show a Thai influence. Lunch offerings include warm grilled-chicken sandwiches, salade niçoise garnished with strips of grilled mahimahi, and tandoori fried calamari and jerk chicken salad. At night, many of the chef's dishes exhibit touches of whimsy, as in the case of agnolotti filled with conch (a masterful, original dish), snails in puff pastry, a delectable rack of lamb with a guava-roasted garlic glaze, and grilled or blackened snapper. The risotto with a variety of mushrooms and fresh herbs is the best we've sampled on the island.

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