Aruba is a tiny island. Only 20 miles long and 6 miles across at its widest point, it's slightly larger than Washington, D.C. It's the westernmost of the Dutch ABC islands -- Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao -- and less than 20 miles north of Venezuela.

The calm surf and sandy bottom make Arashi Beach, near the California Lighthouse at the island's northwestern tip, one of Aruba's best swimming sites. Snorkelers like it for the elkhorn coral, while sunbathers spend lazy minutes watching pelicans fish. The white sand is soft, but look out for pebbles and stones. Although there are no facilities in the immediate area, a few beach huts provide shade.

Just a few minutes south, Boca Catalina, with its gentle, shallow water and plentiful fish, is another good spot for snorkeling. The sand is white, with some pebbles and shells, but the real hazard is horse manure left behind by some horseback-riding tours. This beach has no facilities, but it offers seclusion and tranquility.

A bit farther south, Malmok Beach is another popular swimming and snorkeling spot with tiny coves, white sand, vast shallow waters, and abundant fish. This strand has no facilities, but you can fantasize about the accommodations in the nearby mansions. A scuttled German freighter on the seabed not far from the coast attracts divers. The steady winds make the beach extremely popular with windsurfers.

The island's mecca of windsurfing, though, is just minutes south at Hadicurari, or Fishermen's Huts. Every June, this site hosts the Hi-Winds World Challenge, an important pro-am windsurfing competition, but on any day, you can watch the brilliantly colored boards and sails dance along the waves. The shallow water is also excellent for swimming. Facilities include picnic tables and shade huts, but the white powder-sand beach is flecked with pebbles and shells at the water's edge.

Palm Beach is a superb stretch of wide white sand that fronts hotels such as the Allegro Resort. It's great for swimming, sunbathing, sailing, fishing, and snorkeling. Unfortunately, it's crowded in the winter. The waters off this beach are incredibly blue and teeming with neon-yellow fish and flame-bright coral reefs. Billowing rainbow-colored sails complete the picture. Along Palm Beach, all the resorts are set in flowering gardens. Of course, a river of water keeps these gardens blooming in this otherwise arid landscape, but the gardens take on a special beauty precisely because the island is so dry. As you walk along the beach, you can wander through garden after garden, watching the native bird life. The tropical mockingbird feeds on juicy local fruits, and the black-faced grass quit or the green-throated carib hover around the flowers and flowering shrubs. If you stop to have a drink at one of the hotels' open-air bars, chances are you'll be joined by a bananaquit hoping to steal some sugar from you.Home of the High-Rise hotels,

Palm Beach is Aruba's best spot for people-watching. This stretch of white sand, adjacent to Hadicurari, is also great for swimming, sunbathing, sailing, fishing, and snorkeling. The resorts sift the sand daily to get rid of pebbles and sharp shells, ensuring a beach as soft as talcum powder. Located smack dab in the heart of things, it can get crowded, though, and hotel guests stake out the scores of palapas sprouting from the sand early in the morning. With two piers and numerous water sports operators, Palm Beach is also busier and noisier than Aruba's other beaches. The least crowded areas are to the north, between the Holiday Inn and the Marriott, and to the south, between the Wyndham and the Divi Phoenix. (Potential drawbacks in those areas are the massive timeshare complex Marriott is building just north of the Holiday Inn, where you may want to avoid construction noise, and the wind around the Phoenix, which is sometimes powerful.) On the other hand, as you walk along the shore, you can wander through the splendid gardens of the beachfront resorts, watch the thriving bird and iguana life, and stop for a cold tropical drink at one of the many open-air bars. The eponymous trees, coconut and date palms, were planted in 1917.

Separated from Palm Beach by a brief outcrop of limestone that's home to a splendid green flock of parakeets, Eagle Beach is across a small road from the La Cabana resort and several timeshare resorts. The wide beach here stretches as far as the eye can see. The sugar-white sand and gentle surf are ideal for swimming, and although the nearby hotels offer water sports and beach activities, the ambience is relaxed and quiet. A couple of bars, as well as numerous palapas and chairs maintained by the hotels, punctuate the expansive strand. Shaded picnic areas are provided for the public, and the beach is popular with tourists and locals alike on weekends. Prime sand conditions are directly in front of La Cabana and the Amsterdam Manor.

For sheer tranquility and open space, Manchebo Beach, also known as Punto Brabo, is top-notch. Because the sand here stretches 110m (120 yd.) from the shore to the hotels, congestion is never a problem. The handful of smaller resorts that occupy this coveted location, next to Eagle Beach, offer beverages and food, and the discreet atmosphere makes Manchebo one of Aruba's only tops-optional beaches. The white-powder sand is spectacular, but the surf is steady and brisk. With no water sports in the area, serenity is guaranteed. The premier spots are in front of the Bucuti Beach and Manchebo Beach resorts.

Druif Beach meets Manchebo Beach farther east along the coast. The sand remains white but the strand narrows considerably, and the surf becomes more restless. Rocks and pebbles come out in profusion here. The beach between the Divi Aruba Beach Resort and the Tamarijn resort is the widest stretch in the area; the strip south of the Tamarijn is also nice.

South of Oranjestad and across the street from the Talk of the Town Beach Resort, Surfside Beach is sleepy and intimate. Although the hotel operates a bar and provides towels and beach chairs for guests, the small strip is also popular with Arubans, especially residents of nearby Oranjestad. The calm waters are great for swimming, but there are prettier beaches; Surfside's proximity to the capital is its major selling point.

The beaches of Renaissance Island are restricted to guests of the Renaissance resort, who board a skiff in the hotel's lobby in downtown Oranjestad for the 15-minute trip to the private island. The 40-acre tropical retreat features cozy white-sand beaches, intimate coves, and protected swimming areas. One secluded area is tops-optional. Hammocks span the palm trees, and beach chairs are also provided. The resident iguanas and flamingos are always ready to strike a pose.

In the hamlet of Pos Chiquito between Oranjestad and Savaneta, Mangel Halto is a favorite picnic spot. Its white-powder sand and shallow water are additional enticements for Aruban families, especially on weekends.

The charm of Rodger's Beach, south of San Nicolas, is initially overwhelmed by the gigantic oil refinery looming on the western horizon. Like something out of Orwell's 1984 or Dr. Frankenstein's lab, the smoke-belching towers contrast bizarrely with the idyllically beautiful Caribbean waters. The refinery is harmless (they say) -- no obvious water pollution, no stench (if the wind's blowing in the right direction) -- and the gentle, protected waters are ideal for swimming. The narrow strip of soft, white-powder sand is popular with locals, but tourists who want to get away from the more familiar sites show up as well. Palapas and giant sea-grape bushes provide shade. There's also a small bar and grill, an array of colorful fishing boats, and shower facilities. Bring your own equipment, including snorkeling gear: The water is shallow for almost 15m (50 ft.) out, and multicolored fish and coral formations are easy to spot.

Baby Beach, near Aruba's easternmost tip, is a prime destination for families with young children. Like a great big bathtub, this shallow bowl of warm turquoise water is perfect for inexperienced swimmers, thanks to the protection of rock breakwaters. The water is never deeper than 1.5m (5 ft.), and the powdery sand is friendly to bare feet. Be on the lookout for gnarled driftwood and sharp shells, though. Giant sea grape bushes offer protection from the sun. Facilities are restricted to a refreshment stand and washrooms. On weekends, the beach is very popular with Arubans, who party with music and barbecues. Coral reefs farther out are popular with snorkelers, but the surf is rough outside the protected lagoon; keep an eye on the kids if they tend to stray. Bring your own towels and snorkeling gear.

If you find yourself sometimes snarling at children, avoid Baby Beach and drive north a few minutes to Boca Grandi, a virtually deserted expanse of dramatic sand dunes and sea grasses. The salt air and terrain are reminiscent of Cape Cod, but the aqua, azure, and sapphire waters are unmistakably Caribbean. A penitentiary crowns limestone bluffs rising behind the dunes, and the inmates suffer the ultimate punishment: viewing the ocean and beach and knowing they can't enjoy it. The low-lying sea grapes provide next to no protection from the sun, and pockets of trash and jetsam mar some of the intimate coves. The sand has pebbles, too, but the steady breeze and rolling surf are excellent for advanced windsurfing. Because the surf is riled up most of the time, Boca Grandi is appropriate for strong swimmers only.

Boca Prins, in Arikok National Park on the north coast, also boasts dunes and hardy seaside vegetation, but the rough-and-tumble waters here make swimming out of the question. You'll need a car, preferably an all-terrain vehicle, to get here on the dirt roads. Plan a picnic lunch, walk along the limestone cliffs, and slide down the dunes instead of risking the water.

Dos Playa, a 15-minute walk west along the coast from Boca Prins, is an even more popular picnic spot. With huge crashing waves and a rugged limestone coast, it too is picturesque but unsuitable for swimming.

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Although dramatically beautiful, the northern coast of the island is pounded with waves. The stunning vistas and craggy limestone bluffs are great for hikes and picnics, but playing in the current is treacherous and strongly discouraged.

Land-based activities include bicycling, golf, hiking, horseback riding, paintball, and tennis. How many can you fit in?

A Desert in the Caribbean

Arikok National Park (tel. 297/8-28001) is a desertlike ecological preserve that sprawls over some 18% of the island's area, starting on the east coast and jutting inland almost to the west coast. The island's rich crust makes it one of the rare places in the world with geological origins you can trace with a naked eye. Hiking trails make it easy to explore the preserve's unusual terrain and diverse flora and fauna. Iguanas and many species of migratory birds nest in the park, and goats and donkeys graze on nearby brush trees. Some of the island's best examples of early Indian art and artifacts are preserved within its boundaries.

If you're up for something new, try dune sliding with the locals at the nearby Boca Prins dunes. At dusk, parakeets and other birds bid a cacophonous farewell in Jaburibari.
 

An Underwater Journey

One of the island's most fun activities is an underwater journey on one of the world's few passenger submarines, operated by Atlantis Submarines, Seaport Village Marina (opposite the Renaissance), Oranjestad (tel. 800/253-0493 or 297/8-36090). Even nondivers can witness a coral reef firsthand without risking the obstacles and dangers of a scuba expedition. Carrying 46 passengers to a depth of up to 150 feet, the ride provides all the thrills of an underwater dive--but keeps you dry. In 1995 an old Danish fishing vessel was sunk to create a fascinating view for divers and submariners.

There are four departures from the Oranjestad harbor front every hour on the hour, Monday to Sunday from 10am to 12:30pm. Each tour includes a 30-minute catamaran ride to Barcadera Reef, 2 miles southeast of Aruba--a site chosen for the huge variety of its underwater flora and fauna. At the reef, participants are transferred to the submarine for a 1-hour underwater lecture and tour.

Allow 2 hours for the complete experience. The cost is $74 for adults and $35 for children age 4 to 16 (children under age 4 are not admitted). Advance reservations are essential. A staff member will ask for a credit-card number (and give you a confirmation number) to hold the booking for you.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Aruba offers enough coral reefs, marine life, and wreck diving to keep scuba divers and snorkelers busy. The coastal waters have an average temperature of 80°F (27°C), and visibility ranges from 18m to 30m (60 ft.-100 ft.). Snorkelers: Be forewarned that waves can be choppy at times in some locations. Divers should wear wet suits, especially for deeper dives (the water doesn't always feel like 80°F). Plankton feeds the dense coral population, and freshwater runoff is minimal. The best snorkeling sites are around Malmok Beach and Boca Catalina, where the water is calm and shallow, and visible and kinetic marine life is plentiful. Dive sites stretch along the entire southern, leeward coast.

The Operators

Pelican Adventures (tel. 297/587-2302; www.pelican-aruba.com), probably the island's premier dive and snorkeling operation, has desks at the Aruba Beach Club, Holiday Inn, La Cabana, Playa Linda, Radisson, and Wyndham. The full-service, 5-Star PADI-certified Gold Palm operator has two dive boats (one can handle up to 25 divers) and an array of diving options. Two-tank morning boat dives are $55, one-tank morning or afternoon boat dives are $35, and one-tank night dives are $39. Packages include 6 days of unlimited diving for $325 (try out an operator before committing to a package, though; Pelican is recommended, but judge for yourself). Non-diving boat passengers pay $20 to $25, space permitting. Snorkeling cruises include instructions, equipment, stops at three sites, snacks, and an open bar for $30. Pelican also conducts 1-day introductory scuba courses ($70) and full-fledged PADI open-water certification instructions ($350).

Red Sail Sports (tel. 877/RED-SAIL, or 297/586-1603 in Aruba; www.redsail.com), another full-service, 5-Star PADI-certified Gold Palm operator, has locations at the Allegro, Hyatt, La Cabana, Marriott, and Renaissance. Its dive prices are slightly higher than Pelican's: Two-tank morning boat dives are $65, one-tank morning or afternoon boat dives are $40, and one-tank night dives are $45. Packages include unlimited diving within a 7-day period for $300, a better value than Pelican's 6-day package (there are blackout dates and a 10% service charge). Non-diving boat passengers pay $18, space permitting. Snorkelers are charged $22, including equipment, but Pelican, Red Sail, and other operators offer an array of snorkeling-only excursions that visit multiple sites. Red Sail also offers 1-day introductory scuba and refresher courses that include instructions, a morning pool session, a one-tank boat dive, and all equipment for $79. Pool-only introductory courses are available for children ($40). The PADI open-water certification course is $350.

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The Diving Sites

At the island's extreme northeast point, the California wreck has haunted the ocean floor for almost 100 years. While traveling from Liverpool to Central America, the wooden passenger ship ran aground, its merchandise, clothing, and furniture eventually washing ashore. Tour guides often circulate the romantic notion that the ship was the only vessel to have heard the Titanic's distress signal. It's a nice story but a bunch of malarkey. The ship that ignored the Titanic's flares was the Californian, which was torpedoed by a German submarine off the coast of Greece in 1915. About 14m (45 ft.) beneath the ocean's surface, Aruba's California is draped in orange and yellow sponges, plate coral, and anemones. Grouper, jewfish, lobster, and barracuda make frequent appearances, and a dense reef of staghorn and pillar corals forms a breakwater beyond the ship. Due to strong currents and choppy seas, this dive is strictly for advanced divers, and only when the water is unusually calm.

At Arashi Reef, around the island's northern tip from the California, a Lockheed Lodestar has permanently landed on the silty bottom of tranquil Arashi Bay. The wings, cockpit, and front half of the fuselage sit upright in a frozen take-off position. Maybe the plane's waiting for the neighborhood angelfish, parrotfish, sergeant majors, yellowtail snappers, caesar grunts, gray chromis, and blue tangs to clear the runway. Just south of the plane, brain coral, star coral, and sea rods dot the strip before dropping off to a ledge painted with sea fans and multicolored encrusting sponges. The plane's depth of 11m to 12m (35 ft.-40 ft.) is ideal for novice divers and snorkelers.

Just south of Arashi Reef, the 120m-long (400-ft.) Antilla wreck is the Caribbean's largest shipwreck. Once a German freighter, the ship was scuttled in 1941 when threatened by Allied forces. The wide compartments make diver penetration easy. It's one of the island's most popular dives, though, so you may have to wait in line to have your photo taken in the captain's bathtub. Covered by giant tube sponges and coral formations, the 18m-deep (60-ft.) ghost ship is swarmed by angelfish, yellowtail snapper, silversides, moray eels, and the occasional lobster. Octopus, sergeant majors, and puffers can also be spotted.

Leaf and brain coral await you at Malmok Reef, just south of the Antilla. This 21m-deep (70-ft.) bottom reef's dozing lobsters and stingrays are popular with underwater paparazzi, and the giant purple, orange, and green barrel sponges pose for the camera as well. The Debbie II, a 36m (120-ft.) fuel barge sunk in 1992, attracts schools of fish and barracudas.

Southwest of Malmok Reef, the mangled midsection is all that remains of the Pedernales, an American flat-bottomed oil tanker torpedoed by a German submarine in 1942. Cabins, washbasins, lavatories, toilets, and pipelines are exposed for easy viewing. The bow and stern were hauled back to the United States, refitted with a new hull, and used to transport troops for the Normandy invasion. Chunks of the hull, supports, and cross beams litter the sandy bottom. The wreckage attracts caesar grunts, squirrelfish, trumpet fish, groupers, parrotfish, angelfish, silversides, and yellowtail snappers. Keep an eye open for snake eels and spotted eagle rays, too. White tunicates and orange cup corals coat the metal undersides. At a depth of only 6m to 9m (20 ft.-30 ft.), the Pedernales is popular with novice divers and snorkelers.

Off the coast of Oranjestad, Harbor Reef features an abundance of plant and soft coral formations, including giant brain coral and orange, black, and blue sponges. Nearby, the aging pilot boat wreck is encrusted with sponges and brain, star, and sheet coral. The queen angels, parrotfish, and Spanish hogfish bathe the 11m (35-ft.) vessel in fiesta colors, while a barracuda and a pair of green morays keep divers alert. You may also spot the occasional stingray or spotted eagle ray.

Two twin-engine aircraft wrecks -- both unclaimed drug runners -- form an artificial reef 46m (50 yd.) from Renaissance Island's main beach. The Beechcraft 18 and Convair 400 are intact; divers can sit in the cockpits, but octopuses, moray eels, lobsters, and crabs would prefer they didn't. The fuselages feature a veneer of clinging corals and hydroids, while elkhorn, staghorn, and fan corals preside nearby. Snorkelers can see the 4.5m-deep (15-ft.) Beechcraft from the surface, but the 12m-deep (40-ft.) Convair is better viewed by divers. In only 4m (12 ft.) of water and a bit farther off Renaissance Island's main beach, a sunken barge with crowds of swarming fish is also perfect for snorkeling.

Just east of the airplanes, Sponge Reef is the home of a remarkable array of sponges, including orange elephant ears, purple and yellow tubes, vases, and small baskets. Interesting leaf and plate coral formations are also found in the area.

Farther east but still only 4 miles southwest of Oranjestad, Barcadera Reef stretches from depths of 6m to 27m (20 ft.-90 ft.), accommodating both divers and snorkelers. Dense clusters of elkhorn, staghorn, and finger corals populate the reef, and along the sandy bottom, brain corals and huge sea fans hold sway. Wrasses, scorpionfish, blue and stoplight parrotfish, French angelfish, damselfish, and pink-tipped anemones also set up house in the area.

West of Barcadera Reef at a depth of 27m (90 ft.), the Jane Sea wreck rests in a thick grove of star, boulder, plate, and brain coral. This 75m (250-ft.) Venezuelan cement freighter was sunk to form an artificial reef after it was caught with a cargo of cocaine. Blanketed with hydroids, fire coral, and encrusting sponge, the anchor chain is completely rigid. The ship's sides are orange with cup corals and home to French and queen angels. Keep your eyes peeled for barracudas, green morays, lobsters, tropicals, and gorgonians, and watch your head when entering the radio room and mess hall.

Even before snorkelers leave the dock of De Palm Island (east of the Jane Sea wreck), savvy blue parrotfish looking for a snack greet them. Feel free to feed them, but watch your fingers. More adventurous snorkelers can swim out 27m (30 yd.) for a dense coral reef that supports blue tangs, triggerfish, sergeant majors, yellowtail, grunts, and blue and stoplight parrotfish. Sleeping nurse sharks are around as well. Water depths start at 1.2m (4 ft.) at the dock but drop off to 36m (120 ft.) by the time you're 364m (400 yd.) out. Divers, who usually reach the reef by boat, are likely to spot a barracuda or two.

Off the central coast of De Palm Island, Mike's Reef offers one of Aruba's best reef dives. Enormous clusters of gorgonians, brain coral, flower coral, and star coral dominate the environment, while brilliant purple and orange sponges direct the procession of rainbow runners and barracuda. This reef is especially popular with macro photographers (underwater photographers who specialize in close-up and extreme close-up shots).

Just east of Mike's Reef and 110m (120 yd.) out from Mangel Halto Beach, Mangel Halto Reef slopes from 4.5m (15 ft.) to ledges and ridges that plunge to depths of 33m (110 ft.). The area boasts an array of deep-water gorgonians, anemones, and sponges. Mobile marine life includes copper sweepers, grunts, sergeant majors, lobsters, blue tangs, butterfly fish, stingrays, yellow tails, and jacks. You may even spot a sea horse. At the greater depths, octopuses, green morays, nurse sharks, tarpons, and large barracuda inhabit small caves and overhangs. In early spring, magically graceful sea turtles appear on their way to lay eggs on the nearby beaches.

Continuing east along the coast, Isla de Oro Reef rests off the old fishing village of Savaneta. Close to the mangrove-lined shore, the reef is usually swept by a running current, and visibility is excellent. Beginning at 6m (20 ft.), yellow stingrays, lobster, Spanish hogfish, and French angelfish dart along the walls of staghorn, star, brain, and plate corals. Toward the ultimate depth of 36m (120 ft.), sheet and leaf corals form ledges and caves -- home to large morays, coral crabs, and parrotfish.

A bit farther east, Commandeurs Reef slopes from 12m to 27m (40 ft.-90 ft.) below the surface. Sheet and leaf coral here attract extensive marine life such as snappers, groupers, grunts, and French and queen angels. On occasion, runners and barracuda patrol the area.

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Golf

Tierra del Sol Golf Course (tel. 297/586-0978; www.tierradelsol.com), designed by Robert Trent Jones II, is Aruba's only championship course. With its desert terrain, ocean vistas, and challenging winds, it's an interesting one, located on the island's northwest tip near the California Lighthouse. Aruba's persistent winds are a factor during most approach shots, when club selection can be decisive, but gusts can affect putts, too. The arid links are flat for the most part, the Bermuda grass fairways are fairly wide for desert links, and the greens are accommodating. Although there are no hidden breaks, most putts are fast. Obstacles include sand bunkers, cacti, coral rock formations, and water hazards (referred to locally as salinas). The par-5, 534-yard 14th hole, with its crosswinds, narrow greens, and sand bunkers, may be the course's most challenging hole; play it cautiously. Views of the ocean and the California Lighthouse make hole 3 one of the most picturesque. For high-tech geeks, each golf cart is equipped with a GPS satellite dish and a color video screen that provides graphic hole and green overviews, and many other options. A morning tee time from December through March is $133; afternoon rounds drop to $98. During the summer, mornings are $88, afternoons $68. Packages are available. Guests renting Tierra del Sol villas can opt for unlimited golfing privileges. The course also offers a 1 1/2 hour "No Embarrassment" clinic for golfers of all levels. A pro shop, driving range, putting green, chipping green, locker rooms, spa, and restaurants are on site.

The Aruba Golf Club, Golfweg 82, near San Nicolas (tel. 297/584-2006), on the southeastern end of the island, offers a quirky, less pricey alternative. Although it has only 9 greens -- the "greens" are actually oiled sand -- the course allows play from different tees to simulate an 18-hole round. Twenty sand traps and five water traps add an extra challenge, but the course's most distinctive obstacles are gallivanting goats. Fees are $25 for 18 holes, $15 for 9 holes. The course is open daily from 7:30am to 5pm. Start before 1pm to complete 18 holes. Golf carts and clubs can be rented at the on-site pro shop, and caddies are available. An air-conditioned restaurant and bar as well as changing rooms with showers are on the premises.

If putt-putt's more your style, Adventure Golf, L. G. Smith Blvd., across from La Cabana (tel. 297/587-6625; www.blackhogsaloon.com/golf.htm), has two 18-hole miniature courses surrounded by a moat, where you can float in paddle or bumper boats. Video and table games, a batting cage, a go-cart racetrack, and a restaurant and saloon also provide diversion. During the week, the center's open from 5pm till 1am; on weekends the fun starts at noon. An 18-hole round is $7. Paddleboat rides are $5, bumper boats are $6.

Aruba Golf & Leisure, Sasakiweg, next to the Mill Resort (tel. 297/586-4590), has putting greens, a driving range, tee-off stations, chipping and sand-trap practice areas, a pro shop, and on-site pros. Kids can play at the batting cages, on the playground, and in the game room. Open daily from 7am till 11pm, the center offers private lessons starting at $50 per person per hour for a group of four; 1 1/2-hour clinics for $45 per person; and a bucket of balls for $3. Clubs and shoes can be rented as well.

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Bicycling

Aruba is small -- maybe too small for cyclists who think nothing of biking 60 miles a day. The exotic terrain is flat for the most part, but heading into the wind is a challenge, and the sun is intense at midday. You know to bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen. The most scenic roads trace the northern coast. They're not paved, so think mountain bike. Bring a bandana, too, to cover your mouth against the dust. To rent a bike, call Melchor Cycle Rental, Bubali 106B (tel. 297/587-1787), or Pablito's Bike Rental, L. G. Smith Blvd. 234 (tel. 297/5878655). Prices start as low as $15 per day. Rancho Notorious, Borancana 8E, Noord (tel. 297/586-0508; www.ranchonotorious.com), offers a couple of guided mountain bike tours that visit Alto Vista Chapel and the California Lighthouse. One's 2 1/2 hours long ($35); the other tacks on a bit of snorkeling ($45, snorkeling gear included). Bikers must be at least 14 years old to take the tours.

Birding

Although no organized tours are offered, ardent birders have the opportunity to spy 170 different species in Aruba. In early winter, migratory birds swell the number to about 300. In the High-Rise area, the Bubali Bird Sanctuary's ponds and wetlands attract more than 80 species, including brown pelicans, black olivaceous cormorants, herons, and egrets. Arikok National Park, which makes up much of the island's north central region, is home to hummingbirds (common emerald and ruby-topaz), rufous-collared sparrows, tropical mockingbirds, ospreys, yellow orioles, American kestrels, black-faced grassquits, yellow warblers, Caribbean parakeets, long-tongued bats, common ground doves, troupials, crested caracaras, and Aruban burrowing owls.

Bowling

Eagle Bowling Palace, Pos Abao z/n, inland from the Low-Rise hotels (tel. 297/583-5038), has 16 lanes, a cocktail lounge, and a snack bar. It's open daily from 10am to 2am, but children under 12 must clear out before 7pm. Depending on the time of day, lanes rent for $5.75 to $12 per hour. Shoes are another $1.20. Reservations are recommended.

Hiking

The sun is hot, and shade is scarce, but if you bring water and a wide-brimmed hat, traipsing around Aruba's hills and coastline is full of rewards: otherworldly rock formations, bizarre cactus groves, fluorescent parakeets, and dewlapped lizards. Hiking boots are nice, but sneakers are fine. There are no organized tours; Arikok National Park has many clearly marked trails. Scale the island's highest hills, explore abandoned gold mines, tiptoe around plantation ruins, trek through caves, and comb sea bluffs for coral and bones.

Horseback Riding

Time to get back in the saddle? Several ranches offer morning and midday excursions, and, if you're hopelessly romantic, rides off into the sunset. Wear long pants or bring a large towel to protect yourself from the sun. Hats with chin straps, sunglasses, and sunblock are strongly recommended.

Based at a 17th-century coconut plantation on the northern coast, Rancho Daimari, Tanki Leendert 249 (tel. 297/587-5675; www.visitaruba.com/ranchodaimari), offers 2-hour trips at 8:30am and 2pm daily. Trails lead through Arikok National Park and to the Natural Pool, where snorkeling and swimming in the restorative waters are encouraged. The price is $50, and for an extra $25 per person you can have a private honeymoon or sunset ride.

Rancho del Campo, Sombre 22E, Santa Cruz (tel. 297/585-0290; www.ranchodelcampo.com), has two different tours. The Natural Pool ride crosses through Arikok National Park to the jagged north coastline and the Natural Pool for swimming and snorkeling. This 2 1/2-hour trip starts at 9:30am and 3:30pm daily and costs $50. The 3-hour Natural Bridge excursion passes by the Ayo rock formations and makes a snorkeling stop at Andicuri Beach. This trip begins at 8:30am daily and costs $60. Private tours are available for $75 per person.

Rancho El Paso, Washington 44, Noord (tel. 297/587-3310), boasts 25 years of experience and offers 2-hour rides through the countryside and along the beach. Daily trips start at 9am and 3pm and cost $50.

Rancho Notorious, Borancana 8E, Noord (tel. 297/586-0508; www.ranchonotorious.com), offers several options. The 2-hour beach tour passes through the countryside on the way to Malmok Beach, with pick-up times of 8:30am and sunset ($50). Passing by Alto Vista Chapel and the small white-sand cove of Boca Pos di Noord, the 2 1/2-hour tour follows trails through the countryside to the northeast coast (pick-up times at 8:30am and 4pm; $55). With pick-up at 8:30am and 3pm, the 3-hour tour covers more countryside, Tierra del Sol, the California Lighthouse, and Malmok and Arashi Beaches. The price is $65. Finally, the beach and snorkeling tour includes a trot along Malmok Beach and snorkeling at Malmok Reef. Departing at 8:30am and 3pm, this 2 1/2-hour tour is $65.

Tennis

Most of the island's beachfront hotels have tennis courts, many of them lit for night play. Some also boast pros on hand to give clinics or individual instruction. Non guests can make arrangements to play at hotel courts, but guests have priority. The island's best facilities are at the Aruba Racket Club, Rooi Santo 21, Palm Beach (tel. 297/586-0215), which features eight lighted courts, an exhibition center court, pro shop, swimming pool, fitness center, and bar and restaurant. The club is open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 11pm and Sunday from 3 to 8pm. Rates are $10 per hour per court, and lessons are $20 for a half-hour or $40 per hour. The club is near the Tierra del Sol complex on the northwest coast.

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Boating

Aruba offers sailing adventures on yachts and catamarans day and night. Some include snorkeling, swimming, and lunch; others feature sunset vistas. For night owls, dinner-dance-and-booze cruises include a midnight dip in the sea. If you have something special to celebrate, you may want to charter a private yacht (about $175-$200 per hr.).

CatPeople (tel. 297/993-2750; www.arubacatpeople.com) offers high-speed adventures on a 21m-long (70-ft.) catamaran. Departing from the Seaport Marina in Oranjestad, the speedster makes trips to Venezuela and back (3 1/2 hr., $75), to the California Lighthouse and Arashi Beach for snorkeling (3 1/2 hr., $65), to Rodger's Beach for snorkeling (4 hr., $65), and completely around Aruba (7 hr., $175). All trips include snacks and drinks. Schedules vary, so call for specific information. Private charters are available (2 1/2 hr., maximum of 6 persons $495; 3 1/2 hr., maximum of 6 persons $695).

De Palm Tours (tel. 297/582-4400; www.depalm.com) offers more sailing options than anyone else -- six different snorkel sails on catamarans and trimarans, and several sail-only cruises. Some cruises feature dinner catered by Le Dôme; others offer "snuba," a cross between scuba and snorkeling. Ranging from 2 to 5 hours in length, the trips depart daily in the morning and afternoon and at sunset. Prices start at $35 and climb to $79.

Boarding at the Hadicurari Pier between the Holiday Inn and Marriott, Jolly Pirates (tel. 297/583-7355) features 3 1/2-hour sail, snorkel, and rope-swing (think Tarzan plunging into the sea) cruises (daily; $50, including barbecue lunch); 2-hour sunset trips (Mon and Fri, $26); and 3-hour afternoon sail and snorkel tours (Tues- Thurs and Sat, $30). All three options include an open bar.

Squeezed between St. Franciscus Roman Catholic Church and the parish rectory, this small museum highlights the island's Amerindian heritage. Pottery vessels, shell and stone tools, burial urns, and skulls and bones are among the artifacts on display. Pick up the museum's booklet The Indians of Aruba ($3) for a concise history of the island's original inhabitants. A must for archaeology and history buffs. The adjacent lab studies Aruba's archaeological treasures.

Fort Zoutman, Willem III Tower, and Museo Arubano

During the 18th century, pirates menaced Oranjestad's harbor, raiding horses and anything else of value. To defend the island, the Dutch erected Fort Zoutman in 1796. Aruba's oldest example of Dutch architecture, the bastion stands on what was once the shore (landfill construction in 1930 altered the coastline). In 1867, it gained Willem III Tower, named after the then-reigning Dutch monarch. Over the years, the site has served as an aloe garden, jail, courthouse, junk room, and tax office. The fort was restored in 1974, the tower in 1983. Since 1992, the complex has housed the modest Museo Arubano, which displays prehistoric Caiquetio artifacts and remnants from the Dutch colonial period. On Tuesday from 6:30 to 8:30pm, the museum hosts the Bon Bini Festival, a fair with local arts and crafts, food, music, and dance.

Numismatic Museum of Aruba

This small museum looks unpromising from the outside, but its meticulous, homemade exhibits tell the history of the world through coins. Dedicated numismatists can spend the better part of a morning perusing the 35,000 specimens from more than 400 countries, but anyone with a passing interest in coins or history will appreciate this labor of love. The amazing collection was the work of a single Aruban, who also researched and wrote the detailed historical notes for each item.

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Chez Mathilde

Opulence and first-rate French cuisine make Chez Mathilde a superb choice for special occasions. The restaurant's ambience is classically elegant, and although the service is formal, it's never intimidating. The glorious front dining room features black-and-white tile floors and bentwood chairs with brocade upholstery; a stunning Art Nouveau stained-glass window serves as the front room's focal point. The much larger back room has a sultry, luxurious feel and exuberant foliage. Enclosed by a Belle Epoque glass ceiling, it smells of old money. The food is equally evocative. Appetizers include Beluga caviar, pâté de foie gras, and paper-thin prosciutto with roasted potatoes. Delicious pan-fried trout rests on a bed of peppers, curly endive, and buttons of haricots verts in a heady lobster vinaigrette. Bathed in curry-infused mushroom sauce, the succulent grilled chicken breasts come with sautéed spinach and puréed potatoes. Or you can feast on chateaubriand, veal, wild boar, or ostrich. For dessert, the custardy crème brûlée or strawberries marinated in strawberry and lemon juice are unbeatable. Finish with an espresso (send it back if it's too weak), dark chocolates, and cognac.

L'Escale

There are many contenders, but L'Escale may be Aruba's most romantic restaurant. Beyond a wall of windows, the sun descends and the lights of Oranjestad harbor emerge as a saxophonist plays cool jazz. The gold-damask tablecloths, chandeliers, and voluptuous botanical drawings are traditionally elegant, but for all the refinement, there's nothing stuffy about L'Escale. And the cuisine can be inventive and adventurous. Consider the avocado and shrimp salad to start. Arranged as a whimsical pinwheel, it is served with a fine cilantro and orange dressing. The Aruban vol au vent (puff pastry with curried chicken and sautéed mushrooms) is succulent and complex. Meditating on a frosted-glass lily, mango sorbet ushers in the main courses. The dramatic mahimahi filet, grilled with thyme and served with puréed red pepper, is garnished with flavorful julienned vegetables and a dome of rice. An architectural wonder, the rack of lamb balanced on roasted potatoes is peerless. Save room for the Grand Marnier soufflé. The restaurant offers a special deal for diners who also want to take in the show at the Crystal Palace. This package offers value, but L'Escale's best dishes aren't on the theater menu. To fully appreciate the cuisine, come early and order off the main menu.

Pago Pago

The elegant South Sea fantasy of Pago Pago begins with hibiscus-print tablecloths and Polynesia-inspired oil paintings that blaze through subdued but dramatic lighting. The piano and bass combo adds sophistication, while the restaurant's multi-tiered spaciousness whispers luxury. Expectancy and promise hang in the air, fueled by the dramatic first course: fried plantain chips, 6 inches long, served with a subtle sauce of orange, ginger, honey, and chile. The firecracker lobster spring roll (served fresh in a nest of fried rice noodles) and tropical shrimp cocktail (seasoned with a refreshingly tart mango relish) score. But they can barely hint at the perfection of the main courses: Twice-cooked pork roast with lime-honey glaze is tender and succulent; macadamia-crusted grouper with papaya-lime-cilantro salsa is flawless down to the jasmine rice and julienned vegetable side dishes. The climax? Will it be delectable coconut mousse that's as dense as cheesecake, or lighter chocolate mousse cake? Or both?

Tuscany

As the name implies, this top-notch restaurant features Tuscan cuisine, especially dishes from Florence. The sonorous live piano and etched glass walls at the entrance set an elegant tone, but the Liberace-inspired statuary adds a not-too-serious touch, and the ceiling pipes are anything but musical. Start with antipasti Toscana, an assortment of time-tested appetizers like tomato, mozzarella, and basil caprese; prosciutto and melon drizzled with pesto oil; and Tuscan vegetables marinated in olive oil and rosemary. Flash-grilled shrimp tossed in a frascati, lemon, and caper sauce is lighter but equally satisfying. For the main course, try chicken breast roulade stuffed with shallots, prosciutto, wild mushrooms, spinach, and mozzarella, spiced with sun-dried tomato sauce, or Parmesan-crusted sea bass in basil-butter sauce. For dessert, who can resist flaky profiteroles filled with amaretto gelato and topped with chocolate and toasted almonds? The cordial servers are attentive but never overbearing.